Travel blog
I have to admit, visiting Prague has never at the top of my bucket list, although I really don’t understand why. Prague is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Not only is it the birthplace of Art Nouveau, it is filled with fairy tale castles, charming villages and the famous Vltava river. Brian, on the other hand, cares nothing about this. He is excited because Czechoslovakia has the highest beer consumption per capita in the world.
Information coming soon!
This is just to hold the page!
This is just to keep the category up!
Prague is an eminently walk-able city…as long as you don’t mind getting lost EVERY time. It could be operator error-but Google maps is absolute crap here. On a positive note-it’s the best city to be lost in. Beautiful architecture abound and it’s easy to miss some minuscule doorway that leads to something magical.
Our day starts bright and early at the Communist Museum. Overnight the temperature has dropped 30 degrees. Summer is officially over. Once again I say a thankful prayer for Barbour coats.
The museum is small but very well laid out. The exhibits are sobering, and you cannot help but admire the Czech spirit that overcame this horrendous regime.
And in keeping with our tradition of going to church whenever we travel, Brian and I walk to the Church of St. Nicholas to go to Sunday mass. We don’t fail to note the irony of leaving the Communist Museum so we can attend religious services. Just 20 years ago, this would have been impossible in this country.
We are shocked at how many churches there are especially when we find out that over 60% of the population is atheist and less than 30% are even Catholic. It’s a miracle that the Communists did not destroy these beautiful sanctuaries when they were in power.
It’s so hard to choose which service to attend. Cathedrals are literally built right next to each other. This is the Church of Our Lady before Tyn that is found in the Old Square.
In the end, we choose the St. Nicholas Cathedral which is a mere few feet away from Tyn Cathedral. Of all the churches, this is probably my favorite. Built in the 17th century it has been described “as without doubt the greatest Baroque Church in Prague.” Unlike other Baroque examples, the interior is light and fresh with a double cupola and intersecting ellipsoids.
But the piece de resistance is this splendid chandelier donated by Russian Tsar Alexander II. It is breathtaking in its beauty and grandeur.
Even if you are not religious, I highly encourage you to attend services in a cathedral if you can. The sheer sublimity and sacredness of the music and sacraments make the experience indescribable.
Everywhere you look are fairy tale scenes like this gorgeous tower that is the entrance to the famous Charles Bridge.
My favorite square of all – Old Town Square. Although this is where the Scary Panda is, I still love this one the best.
And so does Brian…there is a guy in the square who has a wood burning pit, and he does nothing but grill pork and serve beer all day.
The Fred and Ginger house. As a former dancer, I feel obligated to visit this cute building. Did you know Fred Astaire is from here? His grandparents are buried in the cemetery in the Jewish Quarter.
Brian trying his dance moves on me. It’s a little more Dracula than Fred Astaire, but I think I’ll still keep him.
As the school “library lady” I am very keen to see the famous Strahov Monastery and Library.
In arguably the most beautiful Baroque library ever created, it houses some of the most rare books still in existence.
This miniature book is only 3 inches long. It has been laboriously hand painted and written in longhand…and is a work of art unto itself.
Did you know Prague castle is the largest castle in the world? Don’t believe me, look it up in Guinness World Records. It’s so big, it houses an actual cathedral-the St. Vitus.
Completed in 1929 after 600 years, the largest temple in Prague is impressive…
But needs a good pressure wash…in my opinion.
Intricate and ornate statues and carvings fill the massive interior of this gigantic cathedral. There are rooms within rooms inside.
Unique to this church is the fact that different artists designed the stain glass windows. They are all in different styles and depict different aspects of Christianity. This one is the Last Judgement.
It goes without saying that my favorite window is the one created by Alphonse Mucha. His creation depicts the genesis of Christianity in Czechoslovakia. In his window you can see King Wenceslas as a young boy and his grandmother St. Ludmila.
St. Wenceslas is even entombed here. Besides Charles the IV (the dude whom the Charles Bridge is named after), good King Wenceslas is basically the only halfway decent ruler Czechoslovakia ever had. His is also the guy in that Christmas carol no one ever knows the lyrics to.
And now we come to my favorite building in all of Prague – the Municipal House. Built to honor Slav pride and culture, it’s decorated by – you guessed it – the father of Art Nouveau – Alphonse Mucha. Inside are two concert halls as well as restaurants etc…
Ornate architecture and intricate mosaics celebrate all things Slav. It is just one of many beautiful buildings in Prague.
Of course I want to eat in the Mucha designed restaurant. I am convinced the food will taste much better here. But alas, no dinner reservations can be made. They will close for a private function. But look at the fantastic chandeliers and decorated windows!
Undeterred I find another Mucha inspired restaurant at the Hotel Pariz.
Brian being a good sport sees if they’re open for dinner. “Why can’t we just have another pig knuckle?” he wonders.
Prague is home to the Mucha Museum showcasing some of the most famous works of Alphonse Mucha – the father of Art Nouveau. Indeed his artistic style was so popular it spawned an entire new architectural style and even influenced the theatre world.
The great Sarah Bernhardt was so infatuated with Mucha’s work that she commissioned him to create not only posters for her plays, but also stage and costume designs.
Mucha’s first poster for Sarah Bernhardt , “Gismonda” immortalized the Parisian actress and made Mucha an overnight sensation! His posters were so coveted that collectors went to extreme measures to obtain them going so far as to bribe bill stickers and even cutting them down in the dark of night.
I have to talk about shopping in Prague. Lots of little boutique stores creating bespoke designs. The Czech people love art in all forms whether it’s music, theatre, dance or fashion. I spot this dress in the window, and it’s “The One.”
Well except this also could be “The One.” Embroidered on linen and WITH pockets, I have a hard time choosing.
Hotel concierges can make or break your vacation. Every time we’ve utilized the hotel concierge, we’ve never been disappointed. We ask ours to find us concert tickets and she reserves Orchestra seats at the Municipal House (my favorite building!) to see the Czech Symphony.
And she even gets us reservations at the Restaurant Sarah Bernhardt for dinner. Yes! Again, notice the lighting and beautifully painted walls.
My handsome date who I’m sure is secretly bummed there is no pork knuckle on the menu.
The magnificent concert hall inside the Municipal House. There are actually two concert halls inside, not including three restaurants and a bar – that is how massive this building is.
The Bar! After 2 hours of classical music, Brian is ecstatic to find out there is bar in the basement.
The bartender tells us this is the oldest bar in Prague. This may or may not be true, but we just go with it, enjoying our gin, recapping our day, and just enjoying each other’s company.
We had such fun here! At times it felt like a whirlwind, but I wouldn’t change a thing…Well maybe add some more days if I could. Prague really needs a minimum of 4 days I think.
Good bye Prague, we will miss you!
Prague Tips: Prague is very similar to London, but better in many ways. First off, the airport is fabulous. Clean, bright, and not at all crowded, we breezed in and out easily. Passport control is another matter, but this was more a case of having the bad luck to be in the wrong line. Our passport control officer clearly “hated” his job, and he was letting everyone know.
Prague is also only 30 minutes from the airport. Believe me you completely appreciate this if you have ever been stuck in the stop and go traffic of London-crawling 8 miles in 2 hours. Prague is also really easy to get around. Its a small compact city and nearly everything is within walking distance..but be prepared to get lost.
There are shops and restaurants everywhere and nearly everyone speaks English. And of course, just like London, there are tons of Fine Arts events that you can attend. Prague is full of concert halls, theaters, and venues that feature everything from opera to ballet to the symphony. Best of all, its SO CHEAP!
I sort of came here kicking and screaming and now I’m leaving the same way. On the one hand, I hope everyone comes to Prague so they can experience the sheer beauty and wonder of it all. On the other hand, I hope no one else discovers this elegant and refined city…so it can stay a secret for a bit longer. Thank you Prague-we had a lovely time!
I don’t like wasting my time visiting places that don’t have excellent food. So Brian really had to twist my arm to persuade me to say “yes” to Prague. In my mind Prague is nothing but beer and carbs; and as someone who hates the former, and rebuffs the latter, I wasn’t sure Prague would be a good food “fit” for me.
So at the suggestion of my friend, we scheduled a food tour because she assured me that Prague is way more than just bread and beer.
The tour starts our auspiciously enough. Michael, our guide, solemnly hands me an “Emergency” cookie. He explains, “This is a 5 hour tour and you will be eating in 6 restaurants. I can guarantee you will be full by the end. However, we have long periods of walking so if you feel hungry at anytime you may eat this cookie.”
At which point, I immediately unwrap my cookie and eat it right in front of him. Shocked, Michael stares at me…and then wordlessly, he gives me another cookie.
Our food tour starts here-at Pernicky Bakery-an entire shop dedicated to all things gingerbread.
First up is the main Czech diet-meat! Specialties like Prague ham, “little fatties,” beef ham, rye bread, pickles, and mustard.
Czech cuisine is NOT vegetable friendly! About the only green thing I ate in Prague are the garnishes on these open face sandwiches.
Any vegetables are pureed into a baby food gravy and eaten with meat. This lovely offering is called Scickova, and is delicious.
Brian’s favorite was this swanky restaurant with an artisinal gin bar. Made with Monkey gin and Fever Tree Mediterranean, Brian declared it the best gin and tonic he’s ever had.
Sophisticated renditions of old favorites. This is roast duck with dumplings dusted in gingerbread crumbs and shoestring fried onions. This dish immediately evoked Christmas dinners for me.
We did do a little more than just eat and drink. There were periods of walking to see some great art and nouveau architecture.
And very avant-garde sculptures like King Wenceslas riding an upside down horse hanging from the ceiling.
Our food group-a fun and very polite bunch from Canada…and us. I’m pretty sure they all saved their cookie.
More walking but it was worth it. This is one of the most beautiful baroque altars ever created inside the Church of Our Lady of the Snows.
And as a finale…the most famous Czech dessert…apple strudel with whipped cream and custard sauce.
Our very first time on a food tour, and I highly recommend it.
Revisiting the Charles Bridge again and now I know why it’s so famous!
1:It’s old. 2: And with the statues, it is the perfect background for all those famous Cold War spy novels. 3: And finally, its’s the epicenter of the Czech pride, and boasts some of the most gorgeous views on both sides.
Across the bridge is Lesser Town but there is nothing “less” about it.
The views everywhere are pretty breathtaking.
It’s easy to see why Prague has been described as the most beautiful city in Europe.
You would think after 6 restaurants in 5 hours, it would be game over for us in regards to more food.
But we’re not quitters. We finished this enormous Pork Knuckle, but it was a Pyrrhic victory. Complete and total food coma…
What a day! Czech food scene totally surprised me in the best way.
Bon apetit Prague!
One of our favorite family “travel traditions” is always to try and attend church in whatever country we are in. And although the services are invariably in a foreign language, the act of worshiping together is familiar, and deeply satisfying.
And so on a cloudy Sunday in June, we went to Mass at the Duomo in Milan…and it was unforgettable. I wish I could describe the experience fully, but my words cannot do it justice. All I can say is that it was so beautiful, I cried.
The Duomo has been described as the wedding cake of all cathedrals. Created from rare pink Candoglia marble, and adorned in frills, furls, swirls, and twirls, it reaches into the sky like the definitive crowning centerpiece of Milan. And, indeed, the Duomo IS the center of the city figuratively and literally.
But the sweetest part was how outrageously the waiters spoiled Olivia. They held her hand, escorting her through the restaurant like some VIP, and tempting her with all kinds of goodies. Seeing all the love and affection they poured on Olivia was just so reflective of the generosity and warmth of the Italian people, and such a lovely way to spend our last night in Milan.
Surprise, Surprise, I love Milan! I know, I know – you can’t trust me because I’m clearly biased towards all things Italian. But believe me, you won’t be disappointed if you go to Milan. The city oozes class and ultra-chicness. But unlike Paris and Rome, it’s not packed with wall to wall people. Instead Milan is overfilling with art, music, architecture, and culture everywhere you you look.
And although Milan is a big city and the fashion capital of the world, everything is located within walking distance…although we hardly walked at all. Unlike Paris, taxis are abundant, cheap, and available everywhere. This made it possible to see almost all of Milan in one day, which is exactly how Brian likes to see a city. Whatever you say about Milan, it definitely doesn’t disappoint.
Unlike Lake Como, Milan is a vibrant and bustling city, fast paced and full of energy.
The stunning Camparino Bar, the famous iconic institution of Milan, and the birthplace to the “Americano” and “Negroni” cocktail. Both were vile, but the atmosphere was top notch.
Olivia in a pensive moment. I love how at home she seems in this picture just taking in all the sights and sounds of Milan.
We start our day touring the only castle in Milan, the Castle Sforza. It is massive and houses eleven different museums inside. Best of all, its only 5 euros for the entire place! It’s not at all crowded, and a lovely way to spend hours and hours. We spent 4 hours here and barely scratched the surface. But do you see something amiss?
That’s right-parasol perils persist. There seems to be a blanket ban on parasols in Milan, which of course, made Olivia very unhappy.
Right away we get to see one of the most treasured masterpieces in Milan – Michelangelo’s “La Pieta Rondanini.” The artist’s last work is one of only four “pietas” in the world. The most famous one is in St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.
What I loved about Milan’s “La Pieta” is that it is so accessible. So different from Rome or Paris, there were no lines or crowds to struggle against. Instead you can just fully immerse yourself in the experience. In my opinion, this is really what sets Milan above other cities.
And less you think that all our holidays are happy and idyllic, note the photographic proof otherwise.
Besides finding priceless works of art “boring,” someone is pouting because she can’t open her beloved parasol.
And she stomps out of the fascinating artillery museum, which ironically enough, is the only one Brian wanted to linger in.
Beautiful one of a kind paintings fail to interest Olivia even one little bit. That is real gold leaf by the way. And again, so accessible – look how close we are standing to it.
We try to appease Olivia by taking her to the Triennale Kids Museum. It starts out happily, but Milan’s idea of what kids like and what kids actually like seems at odds.
First of all, it’s weird. Dark and full of what I can only describe as “giant lawn ornaments,” there is a creepy vibe to the whole exhibit.
Olivia actually looked a little scared. And even more confusing, no touching allowed! That just seems crazy to me. We were fingertip close to Michelangelo just hours ago, but here these giant “Happy Meal” toys are off limits to little hands.
And then another confusing exhibit of kids furniture. Why would kids be interested in this? Especially when they are not allowed to touch them?
Finally in the last room, there were a couple of iPads that Olivia could actually touch to design some animation.
And a little Lego room to play in. Compared to Sforza Castle and any other children’s museum on the entire planet, the Triennele was a disappointment.
We journey on to my kind of playground. The famous Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II. An architectural piece de resistance of Milan, it’s basically the most beautiful mall I have ever seen.
One of the oldest shopping arcades in Europe, it is a showpiece covered with a glass and iron roof, artwork, mosaics, and an amazing architectural feat.
The glass dome and beautiful frescoes seem to replicate a cathedral to me. It’s like the Italians are implying that shopping is a religious experience.
No detail is overlooked – look at the beautiful walls, windows, door, and arches.
Of course we had to participate in the famous Torino Bull “Heel Spinning” tradition. Legend has it that if you put your heel on the bull’s testicles and spin around three times, you will be assured of good fortune. I don’t know if this is true, but Olivia was more than game to try it.
Me in front of one of the many designer shops inside. I wonder if Versace makes “travel dresses.”
This nondescript building is none other than “La Scala,” the most famous opera house in the world. Home to Verdi, Bellini, Puccini, and of course Toscanini, and their musical masterpieces.
It’s everything I imagined it to be, glittering, exquisite, elegant, luxurious, sumptuous, and refined. Filled with artwork, antiques, musical instruments, and sculptures, it is also a working theatre
And this was the “Highlight” of my entire day! We were lucky enough be in the royal box, and watch a full ballet with live orchestra accompaniment! I cannot even describe to you the thrill I felt. Probably I will remember this the rest of my life!
Another thrill for me- the original “Turandot,” my favorite opera, by Puccini. And this is why I love Milan. I can’t imagine being able have this kind of access in any other city. For me, La Scala was definitely my “nessum dorma.”
And last but not least, Leonardo Da Vinci’s “Last Supper.” Amazing to believe that this was painted 600 years and is still as moving as ever today.
And again-there were no crowds and we were allowed to be up close. I am just in awe at how many priceless treasures Milan has to offer. It’s an amazing city.
And another work of art in Milan: The Food! Spectacular meals are de rigeuer in Milan. But don’t forget to bring bug spray…lots and lots of bug spray.
What an unforgettable and full day! Milan, you are one amazing city!
Travelers Tip: However deeply tempted you might be, do not buy your seven year old a parasol. The happiness will only last for about thirty seconds, before it becomes apparent that parasols and seven year olds are a very bad idea. Parasols in the hands of little girls inevitably snag your lovely new (and expensive) Italian made clothes, scratch strangers on the street, get stuck in car doors, make you drop your gelato, and become an annoying menace. By the end of the day, there will be lots of tears…and poor fathers will be tempted to pitch those damn things into the lake.
Instead try to spend your last day in Como soaking up the sunshine and enjoying the water. Be grateful that there aren’t thousands of museums, churches, galleries, and shops that you “must see.”
And even though the shop keeper laughed at you when you asked where you could buy an iPhone charger, and responded, “Senora, this Menaggio-nowhere.” Be grateful.
Understand that this is the secret to Lake Como-the lack of “stuff” is what forced you to spend all your time enjoying the simple pleasures of Italy around you, the endless sunshine, blissful water, lingering meals, and being with those you love.
Our last day started off ambitiously. We had big plans to visit Varenna after breakfast.
But when you are presented with a breakfast like this: antique silver, starched linen napkins, and the best chocolate croissants ever created, it’s inevitable that you will linger too long.
So we scratched our trip, and decided to explore the hotel instead. We strolled through the expansive gardens, climbed up some stone steps and found this!
A rooftop pool overlooking the lake and heated! Add a couple of handmade pizzas and cold drinks and we were set.
Then we explored another path with the hydrangeas blooming everywhere and ended up…
At the hotel’s third water diversion. An indoor terrace level infinity edge pool with another stunning lake view. Crazy!
Since we were pool hopping, we made one final trip to the floating pool.
It’s a little like swimming on a cruise boat, but exponentially better.
And found time to enjoy the beach.
I was the only one brave enough to actually jump in the lake. Yes, it’s cold!
Six hours and 3 pools later, someone is very unhappy to leave Lake Como.
See this gorgeous shot of Olivia in Como with her new parasol. Mistake-huge mistake!
Immediately she snags Brian’s new shirt and nearly pokes his eye out.
And neither are hats.
If I’m being honest, there’s not that much to do in Lake Como. There are basically a few churches and villas, and frankly, after a couple of those, everything starts to look the same. With that being said however, the Villa del Balbianello is not to be missed.
It’s probably the one “Must Do” that I would recommend. Set on a promontory, the villa sits atop the premiere location on the lake, and will be familiar to any Star Wars or James Bond fans.
Owned by the actual ” Most Interesting Man in the World,” Guido Monzini, it houses many of his most priceless collections. And I am not exaggerating when I say they are priceless. And true to form, the Italians are so nonchalant about everything. Here you can actually see the artifacts up close and even touch some of them.
And there is a reason why Darth Vader fell in love here, and James Bond chose this place for his rehab. It’s so breathtakingly beautiful that you can’t help but believe that life really can imitate the movies.
Olivia and I ready for our tour bright and early.
We are going to see the most beautiful home on the lake-Villa del Balbianello.
You can do the tour by land or
water. Guess which one we chose?
And like always, the our Italian guide Simon is good looking as all get out. What is it about these Italian men?
We sit back and let Simon show us the sights. He takes the picturesque route to all the famous places on the lake.
This is the Villa Margherita where Giuseppe Verdi composed the most famous opera in the world, “La Traviata.”
And this is Richard Branson’s villa that is available to rent for a mere $144,000 a week.
If you take the Villa del Balbianello tour by water, you get to skip the lines and enter through the private boat landing.
The boat takes you right to the steps and your tour guide is waiting for you.
And prepare to be awed not only by the spectacular views but by the grounds themselves.
This place is very kid friendly. You can go everywhere and climb on anything.
And there are lovely little nooks and crannies with hidden gardens and secret coves to explore.
Lucky for us the day was perfect with cool breezes and sunshine.
Ahem: This is me in my other “travel dress” taking in the view.
Ha! Actually, it’s some random Japanese bride getting married. That’s right. Anyone can rent out the Villa for private parties, but it’s gonna cost you…to the tune of $30,000.
And can you blame Padme Amidala for getting swept off her feet by Darth Vader in “Star Wars Attack of the Clones” here? This place could make anyone fall in love!
Inside is just as impressive as the outside. Every room is filled with priceless collections from all over the world. This room houses rare and ancient objects from lost African, Mayan, and Aztec civilizations.
Guido Monzino, fervent collector and dedicated explorer, he never married or had children. Monzino spent his life exploring the world and completed 21 expeditions in 20 years before dying of a heart attack. After his death Monzino willed the entire estate to the public for future generations to enjoy.
Yes! That is an authentic narwhal tusk that Brian is touching. And all those maps detail the numerous expeditions Monzino completed.
This is the Smoking Room. All the panels are made of a rare wood that absorbs smoke smell. It was painstakingly dismantled from a French castle, and because the panels were too tall for the Villa, Monzino had the floor to this room lowered an entire meter to accommodate the 18th century boiserie.
Tons of priceless artifacts are strewn all over the Villa. This, for instance, is Napoleon’s clock…that is just sitting on a dresser, and that you can pick up and admire at will. Even precious Ming vases are left out in the open for guests to look at and touch.
And of course every room has magnificent views. The tour was so fabulous! We enjoyed ourselves thoroughly inside and out.
Then onto the town of Bellagio, of which I was less than impressed with. Crowded with tourists, souvenir shops, and mediocre food, it was nothing special.
The only thing I liked about it was the ferry ride. It only takes 15 minutes, and yet, they still serve you prosecco for such a short trip. Just goes to show that anytime is a good time for a drink in Italy.
Our tourist day continued with a visit to the Villa Carlotta.
This Villa was a wedding present to the bride Carlotta. Tragically she died in childbirth at 23. Her grieving husband, a gardening enthusiast, created a magnificent Botanical Garden in her honor.
He didn’t neglect the inside either. Four floors of beautiful tapestries, frescoes, and architectural workmanship make up the home.
The outside is a veritable conglomeration of plants and gardens from all over the world. This is the Amazon one with waterfall included.
Interspersed between all the gardens are blooming flowers that grow vertically in every inch of space up terraces and rocks.
And of course, the view again takes center stage-the gardens are all created to take advantage of the stunning lake.
Cocktails before dinner at the hotel bar where Brian tries to persuade me to drink Absinthe. I am keen until I remember that someone famous died from that. I stick to prosecco.
A romantic dinner together….
Not! Someone does not cooperate. Apparently Olivia hates romantic dinners!
We give up and return to our home away from home…
…And eat more candy. Family vacations-you gotta love them!