I have to admit, visiting Prague has never at the top of my bucket list, although I really don’t understand why. Prague is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Not only is it the birthplace of Art Nouveau, it is filled with fairy tale castles, charming villages and the famous Vltava river. Brian, on the other hand, cares nothing about this. He is excited because Czechoslovakia has the highest beer consumption per capita in the world.
On Any Given Sunday…
One of our favorite family “travel traditions” is always to try and attend church in whatever country we are in. And although the services are invariably in a foreign language, the act of worshiping together is familiar, and deeply satisfying.
And so on a cloudy Sunday in June, we went to Mass at the Duomo in Milan…and it was unforgettable. I wish I could describe the experience fully, but my words cannot do it justice. All I can say is that it was so beautiful, I cried.
The Duomo has been described as the wedding cake of all cathedrals. Created from rare pink Candoglia marble, and adorned in frills, furls, swirls, and twirls, it reaches into the sky like the definitive crowning centerpiece of Milan. And, indeed, the Duomo IS the center of the city figuratively and literally.
But the sweetest part was how outrageously the waiters spoiled Olivia. They held her hand, escorting her through the restaurant like some VIP, and tempting her with all kinds of goodies. Seeing all the love and affection they poured on Olivia was just so reflective of the generosity and warmth of the Italian people, and such a lovely way to spend our last night in Milan.
Milan
Surprise, Surprise, I love Milan! I know, I know – you can’t trust me because I’m clearly biased towards all things Italian. But believe me, you won’t be disappointed if you go to Milan. The city oozes class and ultra-chicness. But unlike Paris and Rome, it’s not packed with wall to wall people. Instead Milan is overfilling with art, music, architecture, and culture everywhere you you look.
And although Milan is a big city and the fashion capital of the world, everything is located within walking distance…although we hardly walked at all. Unlike Paris, taxis are abundant, cheap, and available everywhere. This made it possible to see almost all of Milan in one day, which is exactly how Brian likes to see a city. Whatever you say about Milan, it definitely doesn’t disappoint.
Unlike Lake Como, Milan is a vibrant and bustling city, fast paced and full of energy.
The stunning Camparino Bar, the famous iconic institution of Milan, and the birthplace to the “Americano” and “Negroni” cocktail. Both were vile, but the atmosphere was top notch.
Olivia in a pensive moment. I love how at home she seems in this picture just taking in all the sights and sounds of Milan.
We start our day touring the only castle in Milan, the Castle Sforza. It is massive and houses eleven different museums inside. Best of all, its only 5 euros for the entire place! It’s not at all crowded, and a lovely way to spend hours and hours. We spent 4 hours here and barely scratched the surface. But do you see something amiss?
That’s right-parasol perils persist. There seems to be a blanket ban on parasols in Milan, which of course, made Olivia very unhappy.
Right away we get to see one of the most treasured masterpieces in Milan – Michelangelo’s “La Pieta Rondanini.” The artist’s last work is one of only four “pietas” in the world. The most famous one is in St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.
What I loved about Milan’s “La Pieta” is that it is so accessible. So different from Rome or Paris, there were no lines or crowds to struggle against. Instead you can just fully immerse yourself in the experience. In my opinion, this is really what sets Milan above other cities.
And less you think that all our holidays are happy and idyllic, note the photographic proof otherwise.
Besides finding priceless works of art “boring,” someone is pouting because she can’t open her beloved parasol.
And she stomps out of the fascinating artillery museum, which ironically enough, is the only one Brian wanted to linger in.
Beautiful one of a kind paintings fail to interest Olivia even one little bit. That is real gold leaf by the way. And again, so accessible – look how close we are standing to it.
We try to appease Olivia by taking her to the Triennale Kids Museum. It starts out happily, but Milan’s idea of what kids like and what kids actually like seems at odds.
First of all, it’s weird. Dark and full of what I can only describe as “giant lawn ornaments,” there is a creepy vibe to the whole exhibit.
Olivia actually looked a little scared. And even more confusing, no touching allowed! That just seems crazy to me. We were fingertip close to Michelangelo just hours ago, but here these giant “Happy Meal” toys are off limits to little hands.
And then another confusing exhibit of kids furniture. Why would kids be interested in this? Especially when they are not allowed to touch them?
Finally in the last room, there were a couple of iPads that Olivia could actually touch to design some animation.
And a little Lego room to play in. Compared to Sforza Castle and any other children’s museum on the entire planet, the Triennele was a disappointment.
We journey on to my kind of playground. The famous Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II. An architectural piece de resistance of Milan, it’s basically the most beautiful mall I have ever seen.
One of the oldest shopping arcades in Europe, it is a showpiece covered with a glass and iron roof, artwork, mosaics, and an amazing architectural feat.
The glass dome and beautiful frescoes seem to replicate a cathedral to me. It’s like the Italians are implying that shopping is a religious experience.
No detail is overlooked – look at the beautiful walls, windows, door, and arches.
Of course we had to participate in the famous Torino Bull “Heel Spinning” tradition. Legend has it that if you put your heel on the bull’s testicles and spin around three times, you will be assured of good fortune. I don’t know if this is true, but Olivia was more than game to try it.
Me in front of one of the many designer shops inside. I wonder if Versace makes “travel dresses.”
This nondescript building is none other than “La Scala,” the most famous opera house in the world. Home to Verdi, Bellini, Puccini, and of course Toscanini, and their musical masterpieces.
It’s everything I imagined it to be, glittering, exquisite, elegant, luxurious, sumptuous, and refined. Filled with artwork, antiques, musical instruments, and sculptures, it is also a working theatre
And this was the “Highlight” of my entire day! We were lucky enough be in the royal box, and watch a full ballet with live orchestra accompaniment! I cannot even describe to you the thrill I felt. Probably I will remember this the rest of my life!
Another thrill for me- the original “Turandot,” my favorite opera, by Puccini. And this is why I love Milan. I can’t imagine being able have this kind of access in any other city. For me, La Scala was definitely my “nessum dorma.”
And last but not least, Leonardo Da Vinci’s “Last Supper.” Amazing to believe that this was painted 600 years and is still as moving as ever today.
And again-there were no crowds and we were allowed to be up close. I am just in awe at how many priceless treasures Milan has to offer. It’s an amazing city.
And another work of art in Milan: The Food! Spectacular meals are de rigeuer in Milan. But don’t forget to bring bug spray…lots and lots of bug spray.
What an unforgettable and full day! Milan, you are one amazing city!Â
Lake Como
Travelers Tip: However deeply tempted you might be, do not buy your seven year old a parasol. The happiness will only last for about thirty seconds, before it becomes apparent that parasols and seven year olds are a very bad idea. Parasols in the hands of little girls inevitably snag your lovely new (and expensive) Italian made clothes, scratch strangers on the street, get stuck in car doors, make you drop your gelato, and become an annoying menace. By the end of the day, there will be lots of tears…and poor fathers will be tempted to pitch those damn things into the lake.
Instead try to spend your last day in Como soaking up the sunshine and enjoying the water. Be grateful that there aren’t thousands of museums, churches, galleries, and shops that you “must see.”
And even though the shop keeper laughed at you when you asked where you could buy an iPhone charger, and responded, “Senora, this Menaggio-nowhere.” Be grateful.
Understand that this is the secret to Lake Como-the lack of “stuff” is what forced you to spend all your time enjoying the simple pleasures of Italy around you, the endless sunshine, blissful water, lingering meals, and being with those you love.
Our last day started off ambitiously. We had big plans to visit Varenna after breakfast.
But when you are presented with a breakfast like this: antique silver, starched linen napkins, and the best chocolate croissants ever created, it’s inevitable that you will linger too long.
So we scratched our trip, and decided to explore the hotel instead. We strolled through the expansive gardens, climbed up some stone steps and found this!
A rooftop pool overlooking the lake and heated! Add a couple of handmade pizzas and cold drinks and we were set.
Then we explored another path with the hydrangeas blooming everywhere and ended up…
At the hotel’s third water diversion. An indoor terrace level infinity edge pool with another stunning lake view. Crazy!
Since we were pool hopping, we made one final trip to the floating pool.
It’s a little like swimming on a cruise boat, but exponentially better.
And found time to enjoy the beach.
I was the only one brave enough to actually jump in the lake. Yes, it’s cold!
Six hours and 3 pools later, someone is very unhappy to leave Lake Como.
See this gorgeous shot of Olivia in Como with her new parasol. Mistake-huge mistake!
Immediately she snags Brian’s new shirt and nearly pokes his eye out.Â
Lake Como
If I’m being honest, there’s not that much to do in Lake Como. There are basically a few churches and villas, and frankly, after a couple of those, everything starts to look the same. With that being said however, the Villa del Balbianello is not to be missed.
It’s probably the one “Must Do” that I would recommend. Set on a promontory, the villa sits atop the premiere location on the lake, and will be familiar to any Star Wars or James Bond fans.
Owned by the actual ” Most Interesting Man in the World,” Guido Monzini, it houses many of his most priceless collections. And I am not exaggerating when I say they are priceless. And true to form, the Italians are so nonchalant about everything. Here you can actually see the artifacts up close and even touch some of them.
And there is a reason why Darth Vader fell in love here, and James Bond chose this place for his rehab. It’s so breathtakingly beautiful that you can’t help but believe that life really can imitate the movies.
Olivia and I ready for our tour bright and early.
We are going to see the most beautiful home on the lake-Villa del Balbianello.
You can do the tour by land or
water. Guess which one we chose?
And like always, the our Italian guide Simon is good looking as all get out. What is it about these Italian men?
We sit back and let Simon show us the sights. He takes the picturesque route to all the famous places on the lake.Â
This is the Villa Margherita where Giuseppe Verdi composed the most famous opera in the world, “La Traviata.”
And this is Richard Branson’s villa that is available to rent for a mere $144,000 a week.
If you take the Villa del Balbianello tour by water, you get to skip the lines and enter through the private boat landing.
The boat takes you right to the steps and your tour guide is waiting for you.Â
And prepare to be awed not only by the spectacular views but by the grounds themselves.
This place is very kid friendly. You can go everywhere and climb on anything.
And there are lovely little nooks and crannies with hidden gardens and secret coves to explore.
Lucky for us the day was perfect with cool breezes and sunshine.
Ahem: This is me in my other “travel dress” taking in the view.
Ha! Actually, it’s some random Japanese bride getting married. That’s right. Anyone can rent out the Villa for private parties, but it’s gonna cost you…to the tune of $30,000.
And can you blame Padme Amidala for getting swept off her feet by Darth Vader in “Star Wars Attack of the Clones” here? This place could make anyone fall in love!
Inside is just as impressive as the outside. Every room is filled with priceless collections from all over the world. This room houses rare and ancient objects from lost African, Mayan, and Aztec civilizations.
Guido Monzino, fervent collector and dedicated explorer, he never married or had children. Monzino spent his life exploring the world and completed 21 expeditions in 20 years before dying of a heart attack. After his death Monzino willed the entire estate to the public for future generations to enjoy.
Yes! That is an authentic narwhal tusk that Brian is touching. And all those maps detail the numerous expeditions Monzino completed.
This is the Smoking Room. All the panels are made of a rare wood that absorbs smoke smell. It was painstakingly dismantled from a French castle, and because the panels were too tall for the Villa, Monzino had the floor to this room lowered an entire meter to accommodate the 18th century boiserie.
Tons of priceless artifacts are strewn all over the Villa. This, for instance, is Napoleon’s clock…that is just sitting on a dresser, and that you can pick up and admire at will. Even precious Ming vases are left out in the open for guests to look at and touch.
And of course every room has magnificent views. The tour was so fabulous! We enjoyed ourselves thoroughly inside and out.
Then onto the town of Bellagio, of which I was less than impressed with. Crowded with tourists, souvenir shops, and mediocre food, it was nothing special.
The only thing I liked about it was the ferry ride. It only takes 15 minutes, and yet, they still serve you prosecco for such a short trip. Just goes to show that anytime is a good time for a drink in Italy.
Our tourist day continued with a visit to the Villa Carlotta.
This Villa was a wedding present to the bride Carlotta. Tragically she died in childbirth at 23. Her grieving husband, a gardening enthusiast, created a magnificent Botanical Garden in her honor.
He didn’t neglect the inside either. Four floors of beautiful tapestries, frescoes, and architectural workmanship make up the home.
The outside is a veritable conglomeration of plants and gardens from all over the world. This is the Amazon one with waterfall included.
Interspersed between all the gardens are blooming flowers that grow vertically in every inch of space up terraces and rocks.
And of course, the view again takes center stage-the gardens are all created to take advantage of the stunning lake.
Cocktails before dinner at the hotel bar where Brian tries to persuade me to drink Absinthe. I am keen until I remember that someone famous died from that. I stick to prosecco.
A romantic dinner together….Â
Not! Someone does not cooperate. Apparently Olivia hates romantic dinners!
We give up and return to our home away from home…
…And eat more candy. Family vacations-you gotta love them!
Lake Como
Italy! Why are you so enthralling? In less than three years, we’ve already been here four times! And yet each visit always seems fresh and new.
This time we are in Milan and the Lake Como region, which is way up north on the border of Switzerland and Italy…just in case anyone is as geographically impaired as I am.
Home of high fashion, the Last Supper, and swoon worthy movie set locales; it’s not a bad way to start summer vacation. Buon giorno Italy! It’s so nice to see you again! 🇮🇹
Is there anything nicer than Italy in the summer? Umm, no…not really.
This is especially true if you spend it in Lake Como. Everywhere you look are scenes like this.
The water is amazing, magnificent splendid…and freezing.
The sun however, is sublime. The weather in Lake Como is perfect during June.
The Grand Hotel Tremezzo where we are staying is a mixture of old world charm…
And vibrant Italian whimsy. The lobby looks a little like Alice in Wonderland.
But the rooms are unabashedly traditional. It checks all the blocks of perfect hotel aesthetics for me…antique furniture, real keys, and wood floors.
And the view is not bad either. See that pool? It’s actually a floating pool that is set into the lake itself. Water on water…amazing!
Swimming in this pool is the strangest sensation because it actually moves while you are in it.
And even though it’s heated, the water is cold because it’s set in the lake. We whiled away the morning playing and sunning ourselves on the floating pool/dock.
You know what elevates a good hotel into a spectacular hotel? A full on candy bar in the lobby!
This was really cool and fun! Even Brian and I had to indulge.
And we couldn’t resist having lunch on the loveliest terrace in all of Lake Como.
Lunch did not disappoint with hand made pasta and Italian wine. Add to that the beautiful lake, and you have the makings of a perfect afternoon.
You want to hear something crazy? In England it’s illegal to have hot beverages in public vehicles. BUT in Italy you can rent a power speedboat without a license!
And so we did! That’s right! For two hours going full throttle, we raced along the Lake Como coastline driving our own speedboat,and having the time of our lives.
Seeing Lake Como from a boat is indescribably spectacular.
Even I took a turn driving. First dog sled driving and now this! Who would have guessed?
Mostly Olivia and I just let Brian drive though. We sat in the sun and just enjoyed the ride.
I hope Olivia remembers this moment.
It was definitely something out of a storybook.
Everything from the gorgeous landmarks…
To the million dollar villas set against the blue blue water, and golden sunshine…it was the highlight of the day
So how do you top off an afternoon like that? Gelato of course!
And maybe a little shopping. I indulged in some Italian sheets.
And Brian found something to indulge in himself-a shop dedicated to small batch whiskeys from all over the world.
And then it was Aperitif time. Ordering one bottle of beer gets you an entire board of antipasti
Finally, after a full day, we return back to our hotel on the lake.
Reliving the day, taking in the night air…
And falling in love with Italy all over again.
Daddy Daughter Dance
Olivia and Brian ready for the Daddy Daughter Dance. This is very exciting when you are six!
Maldives
So part of our vacation here includes daily massages. Yes, you heard me right. Everyone gets a complimentary massage here EVERY Day!!!!!
While for some people this would be paradise, for me not so much. I am not into massages. I do not enjoy stripping down naked and being kneaded and pummeled to death.
However, I have to admit here it’s a bit different. They have all kinds of massages that I didn’t even know existed like Indian head massages, gentle face massages, and even soft foot massages where you can be fully clothed but still get some pampering.
Brian however is a totally into extreme massages…and the more insane the better. His favorite is the Thai Stretching Massage. This basically involves a teeny tiny woman, who weighs less than Olivia, jumping on his back and wrestling him into submission…or until he begs for mercy.
And even though Brian admitted that she almost made him cry, he is still a fan. That’s what I like about the Maldives. Here there is definitely something for everyone.
The famous Maldivean sunset.
It’s impossible not to be relaxed here.
And to thoroughly enjoy just doing nothing.
I bought this dress for Olivia on day 1, and she has insisted on wearing it every day. Here she is quite proud of her little star tattoo.
This is the “after” photo of our massages. Obviously I opted for the Indian head one this time.
Brian is all smiles after getting beat up by his masseuse.
And even though the resort is full, you would never know it from this idyllic shot. It’s so peaceful and sublime here.
Most of our time is spent in our villa, which is definitely not peaceful, but somehow still sublime.
We spend hours and hours playing in the water…
Talking, laughing, and just enjoying each other’s company…with the magnificent ocean view as our backdrop.
Of all my kids, Paige is the most sun crazy. Even at the crack of dawn she is up and ready to take full advantage of all the daylight hours.
But there are lots of lovely spots on the resort to enjoy…like this cozy swing that Grace found under a cool palm tree.
Behind us are the “over the water villas.” We thought about staying in one of those, but are so glad we chose the pool beach villa instead.
One of Olivia’s favorite spots is this cool swing that is just the right size for her. It overlooks the ocean and is in the perfect spot…
…the Coral Bar. So every day Brian gets a drink (or a few) and Olivia keeps him company on her swing. It’s a win-win situation for both of them
I haven’t talked much about the restaurants, but they are all consistently good. We are not picky eaters, but we do enjoy good food, and the resort does not disappoint. There is always something for everyone. And the restaurants are gorgeous. This is the Thai restaurant complete with pagoda and lily pond.
And this is the way to the Italian restaurant. We are late to every reservation, but can you blame us? It’s impossible remember your destination when this is your journey.
One of the best things we ate was this board of charcuterie. It consists of something called “Pata Negra” or Jamon Iberico de Bellota, an exquisite ham from Spain that is made from pigs whose diets apparently consist of enchanted acorns and unicorn tears. Soooooo Goooood! This may be my all time favorite food!
All the meals are European style and made up of multiple courses. They are very leisurely and relaxed. And for some…a little too leisurely.
Dinners are a little dressier…but not much. We love eating under the stars with the ocean breezes.
But I’m not going to lie. It’s the water here that is magical.
Ever changing in color depending on the day.
Somehow it always manages to be just the right temperature.
And even when we aren’t in the ocean, but just drifting aimlessly along…
It’s the water that captures our hearts and imagination.
Maldives
One of the things I love most about traveling is the immense learning opportunities that arise. Not only about other cultures, but about our own abilities and even our limitations. This holiday has been no exception. Our family has learned so much…mainly that we suck at wake boarding, paddle boarding, crab racing, and sunset fishing. Of all the activities sunset fishing has to be the worse. Not only do we have no patience, but turns out some of us are actually afraid of live fish! It would have been an epic fail, except for the staff whom I suspect felt sorry for us and “threaded the needle” so to speak in order to give us a semblance of success. It doesn’t matter though. All our failures gave us lots of opportunities to laugh at one another, and enjoy the experience of being “collectively bad” together.
Sunset fishing and we are ready to catch the “big one.”
Sunset fishing is a misnomer. The fish don’t actually bite until dark. But going out early gives us an excuse to enjoy the sun and sea.
And luxuriate in the spectacular sunset atop our boat.
Brian and I in a moment of pure relaxation. This is harder than it looks when you have three kids
In a moment of quiet, Brian and Paige revel in the peacefulness of the sun slowly descending into the sea.
And then it’s fishing time. At first Olivia is very excited.Â
Before long though, everyone realizes fishing is actually boring. That’s Grace reading her Kindle and Paige fast asleep sitting up.
The staff get a bite and let Olivia reel it in, but seeing the fish close up scares her, and she nearly drops her first catch.
However, Olivia quickly gets the hang of it, and before long becomes an expert fisherman. That’s a white snapper by the way.
And before anyone comments, YES! I did go sunset fishing in my traveling dress. I think it’s obvious I’ve never been fishing before. How would I know what to wear? But it’s fine-laugh it up. All my family definitely did!
Earlier in the day the girls and I go on a wake-boarding lesson. I am only there for emotional support.
The girls however, can’t wait to try their hand at this fun and “new to them” adrenaline inducing sport.
They are actually terrible. At one point, I ask, “Are my girls the worst students you’ve ever had?” The instructor smiles, but refuses to answer.
But you know “Murphys never quit!” And eventually…it happens. Success!
A very fun afternoon full of frustration and failure that ends in triumph!
Paddle boarding is another story. Amazingly enough, I turn out to be the best paddle boarder in the family. And except for the fact that I can’t stop, start, steer, turn or control my speed in any way…I am a natural.
Then it’s Crab Race time and now you know where the girls get their fierce competitive spirit. Yes, that’s Brian with his game face on ready to annihilate his competitors…aka, his children.
Paige trying to pump her crab up with a pep talk and last minute coaching.
Olivia is confident her crab will win. But we don’t. We even lose in the Loser Round.
But it doesn’t matter. We have such a fun day just playing…
Laughing…
Loving…
And enjoying…
Each other!Â
Maldives
It’s Spring break and the Murphys are finally all together again! Poor Paige and Grace flew the grueling route from Chicago to Saudi, just to hop on another plane immediately after. But this time we’re off to the Maldive Islands for fun filled family vacation!🌴
Getting to the Maldives is complicated, but as tourism is their only economy, all the transitions are smooth and fairly easy. Although we do have to utilize commercial planes, sea planes, high speed boats and even traditional wooden vessels to reach our destination, it’s totally worth it!
So far we have been here less than 24 hours, but Paige has already informed me she is “never going back.” And honestly, I really can’t blame her. It’s beyond beautiful here!
Situated in the Indian Ocean between Sri Lanka and Africa, the Maldives is located near the equator off the tip of India.
Hard to believe we traveled 12 hours to get here, but we are ready for our adventure.
The Maldives is an archipelago of over 1190 islands forming 26 coral atolls, and a population of over 300,000 people living on 202 islands.
Our first vision of our island home for the next seven days…and it’s impressive.
Olivia inspecting our lovely villa with the infinity edge pool and our very own private beach.
A less than auspicious beginning…this was front page news the day we left…Swine flu epidemic in the Maldives. Yikes!
Olivia however, is not worried.
Our first time taking a sea plane. It’s fun but cramped.
And when I say cramped, I mean very very tight!
The plane lands right on the water and we disembark on a floating dock.
We are immediately picked up in one of these traditional wooden boats.
It’s very somehow quite relaxing to see them chugging slowly across the blue waters.
Brian happy and relaxed we finally made it after a lot of delays and near misses.
This is the walkway to the lobby…and it’s like nothing we’ve ever encountered before.
Paige and Olivia are obviously thrilled to be here.
Checking in, and the girls enjoy their welcome drink…and toast to a great vacation.
The lobby is conveniently located adjacent to the Aqua Bar-a fabulous over the water lounge with magnificent views.
Before checking into our room, Brian and I had to indulge in a cocktail (or a few) while our kids run off to explore.
Our 2 story villa is spacious but not at all precious. Perfect for a family!
This is the lovely lane to our villa. It’s nestled amidst lush settings in the front and the ocean in the back.
We enjoy breakfast in one of the four restaurants on the resort.
And then Grace and Olivia play in our private pool.
While Paige relaxes on the beach just steps from our villa.
Olivia loving all the “cocktails.” She likes to sit right next to the water because it’s so cool…
…To watch all the exotic sea life swimming right underneath her feet.
And the “over the water” swings are fun too.
We embark on a local village tour again utilizing one of the many boats. And look how blue the water is!
A spot of shopping…
…and meeting locals. This guy prepared fresh coconut for us which the girls had never tried before.
Paige being cheeky.
Olivia never gets tired of riding the boats. She loves the ever changing view riding along the water.
The view I love the most though is above…Seeing all my girls together again!