Corfu, Greece

Corfu-beautiful Greek island where we were perfectly happy to see practically nothing. Due to the short time we were allowed onshore, and our propensity for sleeping in, there was not much time to do much. Add to that, no planned excursions, and it was basically a day of blissful loitering. We saw the Old Fort and that was about it. The highlight of the day for us was the lunch. We ❤️Greek food!! Seriously Good Eating!

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The entrance to the Old Fort at Corfu. We eventually climbed all the way to the top of that Lighthouse.

 

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No wonder people love Greece-it’s so pretty everywhere you look.

 

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Brian-the world traveler burdened with all his kids’ and wife’s stuff.

 

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Getting ready to climb the thousands of steps to the lighthouse.

 

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I am smiling here, but that’s because I don’t realize yet how long the walk up to the top is.

 

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We were sweating buckets by the time we got to the top.

 

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Olivia is a trooper. No stroller for her on this holiday.

 

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But the view is so worth it…almost .

 

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Grace is so happy to have a friend to go on vacation with.

 

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Yep-the water is really this blue.

 

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My favorite part…the taverna overlooking the sea…and an ice cold drink.

 

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Olivia’s favorite part. She actually ate all of this, and did not throw up.

 

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Here is my lunch…really the Best meal to date!!!

 

 

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Brian’s lunch!

 

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I have no idea what this is-some kind of fried cheese and honey combo with cucumbers and olives. Sounds gross right? But it’s actually incredibly delicious!

 

 

Athens, Greece

“Greece” is the Word! Unbelievably, the city of Athens looks a lot like…Detroit: full of cars, smog, and graffiti. Due to the rain, lots of tourists were deterred from site seeing, and the place was not wall to wall people. As always, we hired a private driver to take us around and again that turned out to be a great decision.

First, we climbed the Acropolis even though it was drizzling. When we got to the top Zeus must have been smiling upon us, because the rains dried up, and the clouds cleared away. The Acropolis was really fabulous, and I highly recommend it.

Olivia however, was supremely unimpressed. She ignored everything, and instead opted to spend her time jumping puddles and singing “Party in the USA” for the entire tour.

From there we travelled to the Presidential Palace for the Changing of the Guard Ceremony. This involved some good looking soldiers with highly complicated choreography, and pom pom shoes.

Then we just messed around, saw some other famous stuff, and just enjoyed the city. I feel like we must be the laziest tourists on the planet, but we still had fun!

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The National Theatre kind of reminds me of the Colosseum.

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It’s drizzling and slippery to get to the top.

 

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Europeans are so matter of fact about safety. I love how fatal death drops only have a piece of string to warn you of the danger.

 

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Traveler’s Tip-Do not wear cute “Greek” sandals to climb the Acropolis-they are worthless against the slippery marble.

 

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Unlike what you actually see on TV, the marble is not white. It’s very yellow.

 

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So far the Greeks have spent over 100 million Euros to renovate this. And those cranes have been present inside the temple for over 50 years.

 

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Olivia blithely ignoring one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

 

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The views are spectacular, but see the city behind? You can imagine how crowded Athens must be.

 

Image may contain: 2 peopleChanging of the Guard-fascinating and weird at the same time.

 

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Olivia asked, “Are they wearing elf shoes?”

 

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Horsing around and shopping a bit.

 

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Olivia running amok – really! Where are her parents?

 

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The Temple of Zeus. Usually it’s very crowded but the gray skies made all the sites nice and open.

 

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So lovely…

 

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An homage to Paige who taught Olivia this pose for so many of our family pictures. Thanks honey!

 

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Goodbye Athens! You are a lovely country with excellent food.

Montenegro

Have you ever heard of Montenegro? Well, its a small seaport city located near Arendale and a favorite vacation spot for Anna and Elsa. Hah-just kidding-but it might as well have been true for all I knew about this country; which was pathetically little. I won’t give you a history lesson. You can look it up on Wikipedia, but I will tell you that even though the newly named country of Montenegro is only 9 years old, it’s actually been around for centuries – and is absolutely medieval. A small fully walled city perched upon a mountain overlooking the Mediterranean complete with castles, fortresses monasteries, moats, and even cannons. We packed our time here with a private boat tour, a visit to a splendid island church, afternoon drinks overlooking the Mediterranean, and a dip into the Adriatic Sea.

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Montenegro-a fairy tale country if there ever was one.

 

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We had a private boat tour with friends.

 

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Olivia loved having free roam of the boat. The kids sat in the front the entire time enjoying the sun and sea.

 

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Hundreds of churches built on the sea front, the mountainsides, and even islands everywhere.

 

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This church took 200 years to build and every rock had to be rowed out to the island.

 

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Ornately painted ceilings.

 

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The church is still in use today.

 

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Unlike other sites, you can get really close to and actually touch their exhibits.

 

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We spent the afternoon leisurely enjoying drinks with our friends.

 

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Coca cola – Montenegro style.

 

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And of course Grace found the only ice cream shop in the village.

 

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Olivia who is getting great at taking pictures.

 

No automatic alt text available.Clock towers are everywhere.

 

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Our view from the boat is too magnificent.

 

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The kids jumping into the Adriatic Sea from our boat.

 

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This water was very salty and cold but that did not deter Olivia one bit.

 

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What’s more fun than going on vacation with your parents? Going with your Math teacher. Bruce Cooke organized this fantastic excursion for all of us and even Grace admitted she loved it.

 

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Inside the walled city of Kotar.

 

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How gorgeous is this?

 

 

Venice, Italy

Venice in Autumn is….very crowded. The square is jam packed and we are shoulder to shoulder with thousands of tourists. However the weather is lovely, and unlike what I was told, Venice doesn’t smell that bad. Sure some areas are odious smelling, but none of it is truly offensive. Even Olivia who is normally very sensitive to strong scents was ok. Her problem with Venice was the amazing number of pigeons. Olivia kept saying, “Please get these horrible birds away from me.” She reminded us of a mini Tippi Hedren in that Hitchcock movie. Grace though, had no issues. She is perfectly content to be anyplace that has gelato on every corner. 🍧🍦🍥

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Buongiorno again! The Murphys are back in Italy-Venice style.
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Even the canal smell can’t detract from Venice’s charm.
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Bella Olivia…
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This is as close to the birds as Olivia would venture
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Grace shopping in one of the many tiny alleys.
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Obviously there are a lot of bridges in Venice, and Olivia loved just looking at all the boats and gondolas.
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Very picturesque as long as you hold your breath.
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Who buys these things? I was more scared of these masks than the birds.
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San Marco Square – very famous and very packed.
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There are only so many bridges a five year old can look at.
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We did find a lovely little park to play in though.
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And I might have indulged in a little shopping.
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We opted for a water taxi instead of the gondolas.
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And the view was magnificent.
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My first selfie-Olivia is on the side giving me tips.
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On to the port and ready for our cruise. Montenegro, here we come!

Expedia disaster

Expedia – we hate you! Due to Expedia’s incompetence and lousy customer service, we have been delayed almost 15 hours and paid in excess of $2,000…AND we are still not at our final destination yet. What a mess! Poor Olivia is wrecked and her parents are not too far behind her.

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So after spending 24 hours and almost $5,000 dollars on what should have been less than a 10 hour flight, we have finally arrived in Venice! Literally buying the last 4 seats (we had to buy 2 business class and 2 economy seats) that were nowhere close to each other, we have reached our destination.

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The way to our hotel….

 

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The very charming entrance…

 

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Venetian glass (gotta keep Olivia far far away from these beauties).

 

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And the very best part waiting for us.

 

 

Rome, Italy

Planes, Trains, and Automobiles…as well as taxis, buses, trains, shuttles, strollers, trolleys, and now this?

I really do love my husband. I just can’t help but laugh though. Olivia mystifies, exasperates, and sometimes just really horrifies Brian…and it’s so funny seeing the expression on his face at some of her antics!

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Olivia getting on Brian’s last nerve. You just gotta love the look on his face.

 

Image may contain: 1 personShe is determined to ride the carry-on.

 

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He finally just gives up…

 

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…and pulls her home.

 

 

Roman Recap

I never thought I would say this but I might actually like Rome a tiny bit better than Paris. Shocking I know! While France is chic and glamorous, Italy is ancient and elegant. And to be honest, the food is better, the shopping is better, and the people are soooo warm, welcoming, funny, and happy. Italy is spectacular, magnificent, and perfect (as long as you don’t try to claim the VAT). I am not
sure I have enough adjectives to describe how special and incredible this city really is. Mille Grazie Italy! Xoxo-The Murphys.

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Viva Italia!

 

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Rockin’ the Cape and Gun Combo…

 

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We saw ONE art exhibit, but it was good one…i.e. (without kids)!

 

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Her favorite-all the thousands of steps in Rome.

 

Image may contain: 2 people, people smilingOlivia actually took this photo!

 

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Can’t forget the Gelato…

 

Image may contain: 2 peopleHow many people can say they had their hair done in Italy?

 

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The Queen’s wave…

 

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Being “just a little bit naughty” on the No Climbing Zone.

 

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This door leads to something special…

 

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Our “chariot” around the Colosseum.

 

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Playing tourists…

 

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…And loving every moment of it! We ❤️you, Italy!

 

 

Rome, Italy

The Last Supper: So our final evening in Rome demanded something special. Something extraordinary, and I had just the thing in mind. But alas, it was not to be. I won’t bore you with the details of what Brian and I shamefully refer to as the “Epic Pork Fail.” All I will say is that it resulted in Brian and I humiliating ourselves by having an embarrassingly loud argument in a public street over a sandwich…And perhaps the singular greatest regret of my life to date; but Idigress…

Anyways we were so beaten down, we just returned to our hotel. Grimly we decided to eat at this corner restaurant that we passed by every day, but never entered. Turns out this was the mother of all great restaurants. First off, it was one of those long forgotten places where the waiters don’t give you a menu, nor do they need to write anything down.

Our waiter took one look at our sad faces, and brought a bottle of Merlot to the table straightaway. And from there, the night just got better and better. We really didn’t eat anything fancy or complicated – just homemade pasta with baby shrimp in tomato sauce, and baked fish with roasted potatoes. With that being said though, that had to be one of the single best meals I have ever eaten.

And so, with the kids happily digging into their pasta and fish; Brian and I sat amidst the candlelight and toasted one another over our cleverness for finding such a place. For our last supper in Rome, it was “as good as it gets.”

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Ristorante Rinaldi…culinary extraordinaire.

Image may contain: 4 people, people smilingYes, it’s actually this yellow all over. Sorry no pics of the First Course- we inhaled that pasta dish so fast, I couldn’t snap the photo fast enough.

 

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Baked fish with roasted potatoes…

 

Image may contain: 2 peopleServed table side.

 

No automatic alt text available.What makes this dish so phenomenal is that it’s got like maybe 5 ingredients to it… fish, potatoes, salt, pepper, and olive oil.

 

 

Vatican City

Did you know Vatican City is 1/8th the size of Central Park? Yeah, me either, and yet we spent over 4 hours there and barely scratched the surface.

We were very lucky to have an incredible tour guide take us through this wonderful city. Frank, our tour guide, is a modern Renaissance man himself who holds a degree in law, economics, philosophy, history, and theology…and he even plays classical music on the harmonica.

Frank also knows the Pope. That’s right-26 years ago when Frank came to Italy to work-he was assigned to work with “a nice priest” who eventually became the “Big Guy” of the Roman Catholic Church.

And because of that friendship, Frank has a sort of papal dispensation to some special benefits like being able to see the Sistine Chapel at the most perfect time of the day; when the light is at its absolute best, and just before closing when very few people are allowed inside. Once inside because it’s not wall to wall people, you can actually find a pew to sit on, look up and contemplate God’s greatness, and Michelangelo’s brilliant attempt to recreate that greatness, all the while having Frank play “Jesu, Joy of Man’s Desire” on his harmonica for you.

Even if you are not particularly religious, an art afficianado, a history buff, music lover or a student of architecture, you should still visit the Vatican City. Because while all these elements by themselves are spectacular here, something about their combination in this remarkable place contributes to an experience greater than the sum of its parts. And if you are very lucky, Frank will play his harmonica for you.

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Vatican City-the entrance to an unimaginable experience.

No automatic alt text available.This line actually wraps around and around…Traveler’s Tip: Always shell out for the VIP Private “Skip the Line” tours. They are soooo worth the extra money!

 

No automatic alt text available.The Vatican Museum is surprisingly modern and contemporary inside.

 

Image may contain: 3 peopleAlong with being timeless and ancient…

 

Image may contain: 1 personThis is just a foyer. So magnificent and impressive in person!

 

Image may contain: 2 people, people smilingBecause of our stroller, we somehow acquired another kid. Actually it was fine, this girl’s dad helped Brian hoist the stroller up all the many many stairs, and Olivia had fun with her. I think Brian lost about 2 kgs though pushing and carrying this thing through the tour.Because of our stroller, we somehow acquired another kid. Actually it was fine, this girl’s dad helped Brian hoist the stroller up all the many many stairs, and Olivia had fun with her. I think Brian lost about 2 kgs though pushing and carrying this thing through the tour.

 

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Apollo of Belvedere-the inspiration for another famous statue.

 

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Since I am the “official” family photographer, this is the only photographic evidence that I was at the Vatican today.

 

Image may contain: 1 person, smilingLovely little inner courtyard somewhere in the Vatican.

 

No automatic alt text available.Can you believe this curl is carved in marble? It looks so soft and springy!

 

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The largest original single mosaic in the world.

 

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Hundreds of large tapestries depicting the story of the Bible that each took decades to make. In this one, Jesus’s eyes actually follow you as you walk across. Awe inspiring and yet creepy at the same time.

 

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Every square centimeter of this place is adorned. This ceiling is spectacular-and its just a hallway.

 

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The biggest, richest, most famous symbol of the Roman Catholic Church-St. Peter’s Basilica.

 

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It is impossible to describe just how vast and HUGE the inside is.

 

No automatic alt text available.You can fit 50 churches inside. This is just one teeny tiny corner set aside for a chapel that is as big as many churches today.

 

No automatic alt text available.The center aisle to the alter/resting place of St. Peter-the father of the Catholic Chirch.

 

No automatic alt text available.And the statue that converted Oscar Wilde to Catholicism is just in a nondescript corner of this cathedral…

 

No automatic alt text available.“The Pieta” – there are actually four of these in the world, carved by Michelangelo when he was only 24 years old.

 

No automatic alt text available.The view of the dome from the inside.

 

Image may contain: 3 peopleTalking is forbidden inside the Sistine Chapel so the clever Italians have an area outside where your tour guides can explain everything before entering. They even have HD monitors that the guides use to show you even the smallest details of this incredible work of art.

 

No automatic alt text available.The entrance to the Sistine Chapel and the only photo allowed. This is why you must go and experience it yourself. There is no way it can be done vicariously. It’s just recently been cleaned, and is soooo beautiful!! A true religious experience!

 

 

Olivia and her kinder eggs!!

Traveling with a 4 year old is not easy. They are very needy, require lots of equipment, and are never impressed with what they should be. Olivia is no exception. Most of our trips have a level of crying, whining and complaining that most travelers do not have to contend with.

However, there is one SURE thing that always makes the world alright for Olivia, and that something is the KinderEgg!

For those of you who don’t know, KinderEggs are hateful little chocolate eggs with a surprise toy inside them. They are illegal in the US, but ever since our friend John Russell Schuck (thanks a lot John, I thought we were friends) brought one back for Olivia from one of his business trips to Germany, Olivia has been obsessed with them. And when I say obsessed, I mean she watches YouTube videos of people unwrapping eggs in German…for fun!

So try to imagine her delight at finding this on display at…of all places, an Italian Gas Station! Olivia went into absolute paroxysms of joy, squealing and clapping out loud. I swear I thought the girl was going to faint with excitement. The owner was so happy seeing Olivia’s happiness, he gifted her with one himself.

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This gas station obviously hates parents.

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The unveiling…

 

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Drumroll please…

 

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And the winner is …

 

Image may contain: 2 peopleOlivia with an egg as big as her face!

 

Image may contain: 1 person, smilingKinderEggs are her Jam!

 

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And what is inside you ask? Well let
me tell you, it’s J-U-N-K that kids just L-O-V-E!