out of kingdom

One of the benefits of living in an expat community is that you get to be friends with world travelers. Many times wherever you want to go, there’s somebody who has already been there. When my friend Steve Flynn found out about Tuscany, he practically ordered me to visit a restaurant that he loved.

When I say ordered, I mean he hand wrote detailed driving directions, gave me copies of the menu, even pictures of his family eating there. All I can say is good thing Steve pressed me because there is NO way the average tourist could ever find it on their own. This is the type of restaurant that is only for locals.

 

Casa del Pescatore is located at the bottom of this abandoned and spooky looking town.

 

But first you have to descend a dangerously steep and slippery slope in the near dark.

 

The restaurant overlooks a lovely mosquito infested reservoir perfect for dumping bodies into.

 

Steak, fish, homemade pastas galore…just some of the many dishes that came out of that tiny kitchen.

 

It’s all cooked in this outdoor open fire kitchen.

 

The antipasto tray of home cured meats. They gave us two of these.

 

Honestly I cannot identify a single ingredient in this salad, but it was delicious.

 

My favorite was this simple dessert of ice cream and mountain grown berries. I have never had berries this good anywhere!

 

 

One of the many amenities of our “authentic” Tuscany villa is a genuine wood burning pizza oven. Unfortunately for us, we don’t know how to make pizza or use an appliance that can’t be plugged in. Not to worry though, we hired an amazing local mother/daughter chef team to come and teach us.

Imagine a storybook Italian setting, delicious local farm grown food ingredients, copious amounts of alcohol, and 4 guests who can’t speak a word of Italian trying to learn how to make handmade pizzas.

Judging rightly that Brian and Roger should stay far away from any open flames, Jessica and Maria did all the actual cooking, as well as setting the table, making us desserts, and even providing homemade raspberry cordials for after dinner. We sat out under the pergola well into the night, long after the sun had set…

Our unforgettable pizza making experience.

 

This wine is made from the villa’s very own vineyard.

 

The very patient Jessica. Roger wanted to make a pizza entirely made of bacon fat. She persuaded him to add a few other ingredients.

 

Something about wood burning ovens make these pizzas incredible.

 

Brian trying his hand at pizza making. He jokingly asked for a Scotch pizza.

 

Roger corrupting my daughter. He is feeding her prosciutto fat. We had a hard time not eating all the ingredients out of hand.

Olivia was the only one working hard. The adults were too busy sampling the wines.

 

These tomatoes do not taste like any tomatoes in America. They were grown in Jessica’s garden and picked just that afternoon.

 

And the dishes just kept on coming. Dozens of pizzas later, we could hardly move.

 

We all agreed that the magnificent view made the food taste even better.

 

Our little mermaid.

The water is freezing, but it did not deter Olivia from diving in.

 

Even Olivia is transfixed by the view.

 

I hate sunshine, but I have to admit, I love dining alfresco in Tuscany.

 

 

We are very bad tourists. First we lied to our tour guide curtailing our Duomo tour (saying Olivia was sick) so we could go get more gelato. And now today, we completely ditched our Uffizi and Accademia tour to go for a bike ride in the country at a little place called Lucca.

Let me tell you, Lucca beats the pants off of Florence. It’s absolutely gorgeous! You get all the charm and beauty of “Firenze” without the heat or crowds. Plus you can rent a bike and see the entire city pedaling through charming thoroughfares and quirky alleys. Ladies, get a tandem if you can. That way you can sit back, enjoy the scenery and take pictures, while your husband pedals madly, and tries to navigate through the crazy streets.

And many a bustling metropolis….

 

To find this hidden gem of a city – lovely Lucca.

 

 First order of business-rent a bike! Tandem highly recommended, and a husband with strong quads.

 

We had not gone 50 feet when we came upon a very lovely sight….

 

….an afternoon Wine Tasting right in the middle of the square.

 

Of course we had to stop for a glass or maybe four glasses.

 

Slightly inebriated we made our way around town.

 

There are plenty of churches, art galleries, and museums to visit.

 

Lucca even has its very own Torture Museum. Try and beat that Florence!

 

Everywhere you look, there are artisans of every kind showcasing their talent.

 

Opera singers…this guy was really good.

 

And this statue is actually a person. Ok, I admit there are some artists with questionable abilities.

A bike ride around the entire city is a must. It’s only 4 kilometers, and is lovely with gorgeous views. 

 

And this cute guy came out to wave to us as we pedaled by. So sweet! Ciao Lucca – we 💖 you!

So the second leg of our holiday is Tuscany proper…and this includes an authentic villa in the countryside. However, we didn’t realize that meant a white knuckle drive with hairpin turns and death defying drops on narrow one lane mountain roads.

It was all worth it though. The villa is just like the movies right down to the rustic vineyard, blue shutters, and cobblestone steps. I totally expected Don Corleone to greet me at the door.

This magnificent villa overlooks the entire Tuscan countryside.

 

And it even comes with an infinity edge pool. We made it just as the sun was setting in the sky.

 

Meeting up with my brother and sister in law for Tuscany was the best part.

 

Americans should not drive in Italy. Madness I tell you, sheer madness.

 

A ninety minute trip that took 3 hours because we needed our gelato, cappuccino, and beer fix. 

 

Olivia who has no trouble living it up Italian style.

 

And Italian ice coffee that has no ice in it, but is unbelievably delicious.

 

The entrance to our villa is lovely.

 

Brian taking the high road because that’s the only way to reach the house. Dragging our luggage was not fun.

 

Hydrangeas growing wild everywhere greet us.

 

My brother acting like Marlon Brando and inspecting the grounds.

 

When I say authentic, I mean there are NO televisions in the entire house. Good thing we planned our own entertainment.

 

Our first dinner amidst the candlelight and the view.

 

 

Did you know Dubai is a city? I actually thought it was a country. I know! Right? That’s what traveling does for you…it expands your horizons, and forces you to admit that you should have paid attention in school. Turns out Geography does in fact, matter.

In my defense however, even though Dubai is only the second largest territory in the UAE, and is not even the official capital of the United Arab Emirates; Dubai overshadows every other of the seven cities that make up the UAE. Dubai is the UAE!

Olivia indulging in an enormous breakfast. The first of many epic meals here.

 

Where else but Dubai can you order a six course breakfast at 6 o’clock in the morning?

 

This is how a typical shopping trip looks like in my family. Brian is bored, Olivia is out of control, and Grace is pretending not to be part of our family.

 

Found at the Dubai Mall, and the only kind of camel I will let Olivia near because I am unreasonably afraid of MERS.

 

And this is how our shopping trips usually ends.

 

Brian and I at a very posh French restaurant where we had a very bad meal. Steak in liver sauce. Ugh!

 

Dubai’s most famous landmark all lit up. A super impressive music and light show!

 

Dubai is beautiful at night.

 

We hate zoos, but love Aquariums! This is the one in Atlantis. It’s small, but very well done.

 

Grace and Olivia enjoying themselves among the fish.

 

And watching the exhibits. We loved how the aquarium incorporated middle eastern influences with these Arabic majlis to lounge on throughout.

 

Lots of gorgeous and exotic things to see. A first rate aquarium!

 

We had a marvelous time at the Atlantis water park. Sorry I have no pictures because I spent the whole day on their spectacular Lazy River. I am not kidding. They literally had to kick us out of that river.

 

But the BEST part was getting to reconnect with my dear friend Elisa Busteed whom I haven’t seen in over 13 years! It was by far my favorite part of the holiday!!!!

 

While Lisa and I reconnected, Brian and John made sure that the enormous bottle of Jack Daniels we bought at Duty Free did not go to waste. An awesome ending to a wonderful weekend.

 

 

Today was total “Chicago Immersion Day.” We woke up bright and early, and walked to a super sketchy part of town in order to try the ubiquitous Chicago Hot Dogs and Italian Beef Sandwiches at 10:00 in the morning. Upon hearing that we were travelers not from around here, Max gifted us with French fries and homemade chili pressing us to try everything on the menu. And then we had “Fun with Fries.”

Then it was off to the Chicago Public Library, which to our dismay is no longer a library, but instead some kind of art gallery for people with no discerning artistic skills. Our mocking antics of the “Art” here nearly got us kicked out. Not to mention the bull riding episode…

Totally worth it though.

 

Yes, the relish is that intensely green. Don’t ask me why. And ketchup is not allowed.

 

Different flavored salts for your fries. We had way too much fun with this display, laughing and laughing.

 

Disguised as a Library but No!

 

Instead we get this….

 

And this…Target Practice maybe?

 

Guess which is the Art, and which is my daughter.

 

Riding the Bull to Subway or until the police comes.

 

However, it is actually very beautiful inside with delicious Architectural details.

 

The Bean is a sculpture made of mercury glass that reflects the Chicago skyline and the clouds above. It’s enormous and shiny.

 

Had to take some selfies of course.

 

Walking in Ferris’s footsteps…Seurat’s “Sunday in the Park” is also enormous, and more beautiful in person than any picture can depict.

 

And this guy…takes your breath away.

 

This guy…not so much.

 

Chillin’ with Van Gogh at the Night Cafe.

 

And not to be outdone is Monsieur Marc Chagall.Heather Elder Howes, does this remind you of the Tiffany stained glass in our little Winter Park museum?

 

We walked everywhere today. Chicago was freezing but pretty in its own way. Notice the ice in the river.

 

 

Today was a day of “should have beens.” We should have been up bright and early, but we slept in until noon. We should have gone to the Chicago Museum of Art. But the weather did not cooperate, and instead, we spent it shopping where in an act of utmost maternal love, I spent almost the entire day equipping Paige for lacrosse, and then gave up 4 hours of my life to Forever 21.

We should have tried the Chicago Dogs and Italian Beef sandwiches. But my Asian sensibilities prevailed, and instead we went to the chicest, trendiest, most glamorous hot spot Asian restaurant in Chicago for homemade Miso Ramen soup and more pork belly.

You can’t tell but I am wearing two of Everything! 2 pants, 2 shirts, 2 socks, even two coats. There is a Full-on parka underneath that cape! That’s how cold it is…

 

Sunda Sushi – restaurant for the hip and edgy, but we managed to sneak in.

 

Pork Belly Skewers!

 

Paige practicing her chopstick skills…

 

It started snowing and didn’t let up the rest of the day.

 

Look what my wonderful daughter had made for me!

 

Chicago skyline along the Magnificent Mile!

 

Getting ready for our “date night.” Room Service and Netflix.

 

And the best movie EVER! Paige and I watch this together every year, but getting to do it in Chicago puts it over the top.

 

 

 

So Paige’s boarding school is closed for the Winter Weekend, and I flew back for a highly anticipated Mother/Daughter reunion. We are spending the weekend in the Windy City, and that nickname is no joke. Chicago is bitterly cold in February. So cold that we kept our parkas on even inside the restaurant. If I could have managed to eat with my gloves on, I would have done so.

First order of business was Chicago’s famous Deep Dish Pizza at the infamous Giordano’s. We walked 5 blocks in the biting cold nearly succumbing to frostbite and hypothermia…and had big expectations.

We were not disappointed. We ordered a Small, which actually turns out to be a 46 pound pie that looks like a pizza casserole. The menu says it feeds 2, but I think they should add “for 7 weeks” just to be accurate. – Brian Murphy, you would have loved it.

 

 

 

 

 

Our first full day in Chicago has been filled with all kinds of Firsts! First time using Uber – SO COOL! First time trying Garrett’s Mix- a strange but highly addictive popcorn combo of caramel and cheese popcorn together. It shouldn’t work, and yet somehow it does. But more importantly, the first time my 16 year old has ever successfully managed chopsticks to eat a meal. I know, I know-that is just complete parental neglect on my part. Mea culpa!

And in between all these milestones, we had the best time talking, laughing, and spending time together. And did I say lots and lots of laughing…

It’s Theatre Week in Chicago and we are taking advantage of it. Today we went to the Ballet.

 

Garrett’s Popcorn-people line up out the door for this.

 

Indulging in authentic Asian food, which is not easy to find at Culver.

 

A lesson on how to properly hold chopsticks.

 

Concentrate…

 

Ta Da!

 

Anyone who’s been around teens knows they need lots of selfies.

 

We spent a hilarious evening taking lots and lots of Selfies.

 

In the end, I just went ahead and fully embraced the whole Selfie taking thing. This is me as a mouse. Nice huh?