Venice in Autumn is….very crowded. The square is jam packed and we are shoulder to shoulder with thousands of tourists. However the weather is lovely, and unlike what I was told, Venice doesn’t smell that bad. Sure some areas are odious smelling, but none of it is truly offensive. Even Olivia who is normally very sensitive to strong scents was ok. Her problem with Venice was the amazing number of pigeons. Olivia kept saying, “Please get these horrible birds away from me.” She reminded us of a mini Tippi Hedren in that Hitchcock movie. Grace though, had no issues. She is perfectly content to be anyplace that has gelato on every corner. 🍧🍦🍥
Expedia disaster
Expedia – we hate you! Due to Expedia’s incompetence and lousy customer service, we have been delayed almost 15 hours and paid in excess of $2,000…AND we are still not at our final destination yet. What a mess! Poor Olivia is wrecked and her parents are not too far behind her.
So after spending 24 hours and almost $5,000 dollars on what should have been less than a 10 hour flight, we have finally arrived in Venice! Literally buying the last 4 seats (we had to buy 2 business class and 2 economy seats) that were nowhere close to each other, we have reached our destination.
The way to our hotel….
The very charming entrance…
Venetian glass (gotta keep Olivia far far away from these beauties).
And the very best part waiting for us.
Rome, Italy
Planes, Trains, and Automobiles…as well as taxis, buses, trains, shuttles, strollers, trolleys, and now this?
I really do love my husband. I just can’t help but laugh though. Olivia mystifies, exasperates, and sometimes just really horrifies Brian…and it’s so funny seeing the expression on his face at some of her antics!
Olivia getting on Brian’s last nerve. You just gotta love the look on his face.
She is determined to ride the carry-on.
He finally just gives up…
…and pulls her home.
Roman Recap
I never thought I would say this but I might actually like Rome a tiny bit better than Paris. Shocking I know! While France is chic and glamorous, Italy is ancient and elegant. And to be honest, the food is better, the shopping is better, and the people are soooo warm, welcoming, funny, and happy. Italy is spectacular, magnificent, and perfect (as long as you don’t try to claim the VAT). I am not
sure I have enough adjectives to describe how special and incredible this city really is. Mille Grazie Italy! Xoxo-The Murphys.
Viva Italia!
Rockin’ the Cape and Gun Combo…
We saw ONE art exhibit, but it was good one…i.e. (without kids)!
Her favorite-all the thousands of steps in Rome.
Olivia actually took this photo!
Can’t forget the Gelato…
How many people can say they had their hair done in Italy?
The Queen’s wave…
Being “just a little bit naughty” on the No Climbing Zone.
This door leads to something special…
Our “chariot” around the Colosseum.
Playing tourists…
…And loving every moment of it! We ❤️you, Italy!
Rome, Italy
The Last Supper: So our final evening in Rome demanded something special. Something extraordinary, and I had just the thing in mind. But alas, it was not to be. I won’t bore you with the details of what Brian and I shamefully refer to as the “Epic Pork Fail.” All I will say is that it resulted in Brian and I humiliating ourselves by having an embarrassingly loud argument in a public street over a sandwich…And perhaps the singular greatest regret of my life to date; but Idigress…
Anyways we were so beaten down, we just returned to our hotel. Grimly we decided to eat at this corner restaurant that we passed by every day, but never entered. Turns out this was the mother of all great restaurants. First off, it was one of those long forgotten places where the waiters don’t give you a menu, nor do they need to write anything down.
Our waiter took one look at our sad faces, and brought a bottle of Merlot to the table straightaway. And from there, the night just got better and better. We really didn’t eat anything fancy or complicated – just homemade pasta with baby shrimp in tomato sauce, and baked fish with roasted potatoes. With that being said though, that had to be one of the single best meals I have ever eaten.
And so, with the kids happily digging into their pasta and fish; Brian and I sat amidst the candlelight and toasted one another over our cleverness for finding such a place. For our last supper in Rome, it was “as good as it gets.”
Ristorante Rinaldi…culinary extraordinaire.
Yes, it’s actually this yellow all over. Sorry no pics of the First Course- we inhaled that pasta dish so fast, I couldn’t snap the photo fast enough.
Baked fish with roasted potatoes…
Served table side.
What makes this dish so phenomenal is that it’s got like maybe 5 ingredients to it… fish, potatoes, salt, pepper, and olive oil.
Vatican City
Did you know Vatican City is 1/8th the size of Central Park? Yeah, me either, and yet we spent over 4 hours there and barely scratched the surface.
We were very lucky to have an incredible tour guide take us through this wonderful city. Frank, our tour guide, is a modern Renaissance man himself who holds a degree in law, economics, philosophy, history, and theology…and he even plays classical music on the harmonica.
Frank also knows the Pope. That’s right-26 years ago when Frank came to Italy to work-he was assigned to work with “a nice priest” who eventually became the “Big Guy” of the Roman Catholic Church.
And because of that friendship, Frank has a sort of papal dispensation to some special benefits like being able to see the Sistine Chapel at the most perfect time of the day; when the light is at its absolute best, and just before closing when very few people are allowed inside. Once inside because it’s not wall to wall people, you can actually find a pew to sit on, look up and contemplate God’s greatness, and Michelangelo’s brilliant attempt to recreate that greatness, all the while having Frank play “Jesu, Joy of Man’s Desire” on his harmonica for you.
Even if you are not particularly religious, an art afficianado, a history buff, music lover or a student of architecture, you should still visit the Vatican City. Because while all these elements by themselves are spectacular here, something about their combination in this remarkable place contributes to an experience greater than the sum of its parts. And if you are very lucky, Frank will play his harmonica for you.
Vatican City-the entrance to an unimaginable experience.
This line actually wraps around and around…Traveler’s Tip: Always shell out for the VIP Private “Skip the Line” tours. They are soooo worth the extra money!
The Vatican Museum is surprisingly modern and contemporary inside.
Along with being timeless and ancient…
This is just a foyer. So magnificent and impressive in person!
Because of our stroller, we somehow acquired another kid. Actually it was fine, this girl’s dad helped Brian hoist the stroller up all the many many stairs, and Olivia had fun with her. I think Brian lost about 2 kgs though pushing and carrying this thing through the tour.Because of our stroller, we somehow acquired another kid. Actually it was fine, this girl’s dad helped Brian hoist the stroller up all the many many stairs, and Olivia had fun with her. I think Brian lost about 2 kgs though pushing and carrying this thing through the tour.
Apollo of Belvedere-the inspiration for another famous statue.
Since I am the “official” family photographer, this is the only photographic evidence that I was at the Vatican today.
Lovely little inner courtyard somewhere in the Vatican.
Can you believe this curl is carved in marble? It looks so soft and springy!
The largest original single mosaic in the world.
Hundreds of large tapestries depicting the story of the Bible that each took decades to make. In this one, Jesus’s eyes actually follow you as you walk across. Awe inspiring and yet creepy at the same time.
Every square centimeter of this place is adorned. This ceiling is spectacular-and its just a hallway.
The biggest, richest, most famous symbol of the Roman Catholic Church-St. Peter’s Basilica.
It is impossible to describe just how vast and HUGE the inside is.
You can fit 50 churches inside. This is just one teeny tiny corner set aside for a chapel that is as big as many churches today.
The center aisle to the alter/resting place of St. Peter-the father of the Catholic Chirch.
And the statue that converted Oscar Wilde to Catholicism is just in a nondescript corner of this cathedral…
“The Pieta” – there are actually four of these in the world, carved by Michelangelo when he was only 24 years old.
The view of the dome from the inside.
Talking is forbidden inside the Sistine Chapel so the clever Italians have an area outside where your tour guides can explain everything before entering. They even have HD monitors that the guides use to show you even the smallest details of this incredible work of art.
The entrance to the Sistine Chapel and the only photo allowed. This is why you must go and experience it yourself. There is no way it can be done vicariously. It’s just recently been cleaned, and is soooo beautiful!! A true religious experience!
Olivia and her kinder eggs!!
Traveling with a 4 year old is not easy. They are very needy, require lots of equipment, and are never impressed with what they should be. Olivia is no exception. Most of our trips have a level of crying, whining and complaining that most travelers do not have to contend with.
However, there is one SURE thing that always makes the world alright for Olivia, and that something is the KinderEgg!
For those of you who don’t know, KinderEggs are hateful little chocolate eggs with a surprise toy inside them. They are illegal in the US, but ever since our friend John Russell Schuck (thanks a lot John, I thought we were friends) brought one back for Olivia from one of his business trips to Germany, Olivia has been obsessed with them. And when I say obsessed, I mean she watches YouTube videos of people unwrapping eggs in German…for fun!
So try to imagine her delight at finding this on display at…of all places, an Italian Gas Station! Olivia went into absolute paroxysms of joy, squealing and clapping out loud. I swear I thought the girl was going to faint with excitement. The owner was so happy seeing Olivia’s happiness, he gifted her with one himself.
This gas station obviously hates parents.
The unveiling…
Drumroll please…
And the winner is …
Olivia with an egg as big as her face!
KinderEggs are her Jam!
And what is inside you ask? Well let
me tell you, it’s J-U-N-K that kids just L-O-V-E!
Pompeii
Pompei is a super tour for families with kids. First off, it’s only about 1-2 hours outside Rome and a very pleasant drive. Second, unlike the Colosseum, it’s all single story, so no worries about your kids plunging to their deaths. Third, there’s not much damage your children can inflict on Pompeii. After all, the place is already in ruins, and besides if a freaking volcano can’t destroy Pompeii; your kids can hardly do worse. It’s also really spread out so your kids can use their outside voice and generally run amok without much repercussions.
Mostly though Pompeii is just interesting in general. It’s the largest archeological site, and for the most part still intact. You can get a true visual of what life was like in Ancient Rome from the shops, restaurants, homes and even their spas. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves here. Highly recommend it!
Pompeii-great and ancient city.
The guards actually laughed when Olivia jumped in here. This was actually a store that sold olive oil and this container held their inventory.
For a city thousands of years old, this place was remarkably well organized and pretty.
Unbelievably there are tons of artifacts completely intact. This is just a small portion of the stuff found here.
This is an actual Pompeii man. Archeologists were able to inject plaster into the volcanic remains and recreate a human form.
Incredible because you can actually see the sorrow and suffering just from the statues.
Ancient Legos…
Even the gardens have been recreated.
The frescos and carvings are still present. They are so clear, you can actually read the inscriptions.
This is a dining room with the original paint. The colors are still vibrant and fresh.
Original movie trailer for “Percy Jackson and the Sea of Monsters.”
A pizza oven-this design is still in use today. They actually found 28 pieces of bread inside when they excavated this oven!
Grace enjoying the wonderful sunshine and sea breezes of Pompeii.
For some reason Olivia really took to our tour guide, Vincenzo. She held Vincenzo’s hand almost the entire tour, which delighted him to no end.
He was so fun and so stereotypically Italian with his booming voice and expressive hands.
Look how pretty and perfect the day was!
Arrivaderci Pompeii! We loved visiting you!
Amalfi Coast
Before this trip to Italy, I was woefully ignorant of almost everything about this country…except for its most important factoid….mainly that George Clooney lives here. I happen to know from reliable journalistic sources that he loves Lake Como and the Amalfi coast. And well frankly, if it’s good enough for George, it’s good enough for us. Today we went in search of the Italian Riviera and maybe/hopefully a sighting of George ourselves.
Travelers be forewarned though, if you are prone to car sickness, think twice about this trip. You will lose your cookies in about 30 seconds. However if you can handle the breakneck speeds, the hair pin turns and the careening buses, you will be rewarded with a magical sight of mountainside villages perched precariously over turquoise blue waters. This place really is postcard perfect.
The day was like a storybook fairytale. Everything about the Italian coast seems brighter, crisper, and more intense in sight, sound and taste.
Our first sight of Positano.
I did not photoshop this. The colors are really this intense.
Perfect weather for this day trip.
Positano is very expensive. This meal costs 3xs more than any meal in Rome, but so worth it!
Chez Black is right on the water and the waiters are very handsome! The food is pretty good too.
Fabio-our extremely good looking driver and tour guide.
Amalfi coastline…
Grace and her still great looking hair.
Brian’s impersonation of an Italian Don.
Yeah-no comment…
Postcard perfect…
Ravello town square-even Olivia is charmed.
Of all the cities, Ravello is my favorite.
It is so stereotypically Italian…
They are famous for their lemons…
…and make all kinds of delicious and wonderful things with it.
Grace and her Gelato!!!
“I’m just here for the Gelato” has been, and continues to be Grace’s daily “raison d’être”. And Italy has been a resounding success in that regard with these ubiquitous ice cream stands on every corner. Grace has managed to eat at least one a day. Brian and I try to save our calories for the alcohol, but every once in a while even our resolve weakens!”I’m just here for the Gelato” has been, and continues to be Grace’s daily “raison d’être”. And Italy has been a resounding success in that regard with these ubiquitous ice cream stands on every corner. Grace has managed to eat at least one a day. Brian and I try to save our calories for the alcohol, but every once in a while even our resolve weakens!
After an exhaustive search, Grom is our favorite Gelato stand.
But we don’t discriminate…
Coconut with chocolate for me…
Strawberry for Olivia because it’s pink….
Grace likes anything with chocolate in it.
Gelato is serious business…especially if sprinkles are involved.