Prague is an eminently walk-able city…as long as you don’t mind getting lost EVERY time. It could be operator error-but Google maps is absolute crap here. On a positive note-it’s the best city to be lost in. Beautiful architecture abound and it’s easy to miss some minuscule doorway that leads to something magical.
Our day starts bright and early at the Communist Museum. Overnight the temperature has dropped 30 degrees. Summer is officially over. Once again I say a thankful prayer for Barbour coats.
The museum is small but very well laid out. The exhibits are sobering, and you cannot help but admire the Czech spirit that overcame this horrendous regime.
And in keeping with our tradition of going to church whenever we travel, Brian and I walk to the Church of St. Nicholas to go to Sunday mass. We don’t fail to note the irony of leaving the Communist Museum so we can attend religious services. Just 20 years ago, this would have been impossible in this country.
We are shocked at how many churches there are especially when we find out that over 60% of the population is atheist and less than 30% are even Catholic. It’s a miracle that the Communists did not destroy these beautiful sanctuaries when they were in power.
It’s so hard to choose which service to attend. Cathedrals are literally built right next to each other. This is the Church of Our Lady before Tyn that is found in the Old Square.
In the end, we choose the St. Nicholas Cathedral which is a mere few feet away from Tyn Cathedral. Of all the churches, this is probably my favorite. Built in the 17th century it has been described “as without doubt the greatest Baroque Church in Prague.” Unlike other Baroque examples, the interior is light and fresh with a double cupola and intersecting ellipsoids.
But the piece de resistance is this splendid chandelier donated by Russian Tsar Alexander II. It is breathtaking in its beauty and grandeur.
Even if you are not religious, I highly encourage you to attend services in a cathedral if you can. The sheer sublimity and sacredness of the music and sacraments make the experience indescribable.
Everywhere you look are fairy tale scenes like this gorgeous tower that is the entrance to the famous Charles Bridge.
My favorite square of all – Old Town Square. Although this is where the Scary Panda is, I still love this one the best.
And so does Brian…there is a guy in the square who has a wood burning pit, and he does nothing but grill pork and serve beer all day.
The Fred and Ginger house. As a former dancer, I feel obligated to visit this cute building. Did you know Fred Astaire is from here? His grandparents are buried in the cemetery in the Jewish Quarter.
Brian trying his dance moves on me. It’s a little more Dracula than Fred Astaire, but I think I’ll still keep him.
As the school “library lady” I am very keen to see the famous Strahov Monastery and Library.
In arguably the most beautiful Baroque library ever created, it houses some of the most rare books still in existence.
This miniature book is only 3 inches long. It has been laboriously hand painted and written in longhand…and is a work of art unto itself.
Did you know Prague castle is the largest castle in the world? Don’t believe me, look it up in Guinness World Records. It’s so big, it houses an actual cathedral-the St. Vitus.
Completed in 1929 after 600 years, the largest temple in Prague is impressive…
But needs a good pressure wash…in my opinion.
Intricate and ornate statues and carvings fill the massive interior of this gigantic cathedral. There are rooms within rooms inside.
Unique to this church is the fact that different artists designed the stain glass windows. They are all in different styles and depict different aspects of Christianity. This one is the Last Judgement.
It goes without saying that my favorite window is the one created by Alphonse Mucha. His creation depicts the genesis of Christianity in Czechoslovakia. In his window you can see King Wenceslas as a young boy and his grandmother St. Ludmila.
St. Wenceslas is even entombed here. Besides Charles the IV (the dude whom the Charles Bridge is named after), good King Wenceslas is basically the only halfway decent ruler Czechoslovakia ever had. His is also the guy in that Christmas carol no one ever knows the lyrics to.
And now we come to my favorite building in all of Prague – the Municipal House. Built to honor Slav pride and culture, it’s decorated by – you guessed it – the father of Art Nouveau – Alphonse Mucha. Inside are two concert halls as well as restaurants etc…
Ornate architecture and intricate mosaics celebrate all things Slav. It is just one of many beautiful buildings in Prague.
Of course I want to eat in the Mucha designed restaurant. I am convinced the food will taste much better here. But alas, no dinner reservations can be made. They will close for a private function. But look at the fantastic chandeliers and decorated windows!
Undeterred I find another Mucha inspired restaurant at the Hotel Pariz.
Brian being a good sport sees if they’re open for dinner. “Why can’t we just have another pig knuckle?” he wonders.
Prague is home to the Mucha Museum showcasing some of the most famous works of Alphonse Mucha – the father of Art Nouveau. Indeed his artistic style was so popular it spawned an entire new architectural style and even influenced the theatre world.
The great Sarah Bernhardt was so infatuated with Mucha’s work that she commissioned him to create not only posters for her plays, but also stage and costume designs.
Mucha’s first poster for Sarah Bernhardt , “Gismonda” immortalized the Parisian actress and made Mucha an overnight sensation! His posters were so coveted that collectors went to extreme measures to obtain them going so far as to bribe bill stickers and even cutting them down in the dark of night.
I have to talk about shopping in Prague. Lots of little boutique stores creating bespoke designs. The Czech people love art in all forms whether it’s music, theatre, dance or fashion. I spot this dress in the window, and it’s “The One.”
Well except this also could be “The One.” Embroidered on linen and WITH pockets, I have a hard time choosing.
Hotel concierges can make or break your vacation. Every time we’ve utilized the hotel concierge, we’ve never been disappointed. We ask ours to find us concert tickets and she reserves Orchestra seats at the Municipal House (my favorite building!) to see the Czech Symphony.
And she even gets us reservations at the Restaurant Sarah Bernhardt for dinner. Yes! Again, notice the lighting and beautifully painted walls.
My handsome date who I’m sure is secretly bummed there is no pork knuckle on the menu.
The magnificent concert hall inside the Municipal House. There are actually two concert halls inside, not including three restaurants and a bar – that is how massive this building is.
The Bar! After 2 hours of classical music, Brian is ecstatic to find out there is bar in the basement.
The bartender tells us this is the oldest bar in Prague. This may or may not be true, but we just go with it, enjoying our gin, recapping our day, and just enjoying each other’s company.
We had such fun here! At times it felt like a whirlwind, but I wouldn’t change a thing…Well maybe add some more days if I could. Prague really needs a minimum of 4 days I think.
Good bye Prague, we will miss you!
Prague Tips: Prague is very similar to London, but better in many ways. First off, the airport is fabulous. Clean, bright, and not at all crowded, we breezed in and out easily. Passport control is another matter, but this was more a case of having the bad luck to be in the wrong line. Our passport control officer clearly “hated” his job, and he was letting everyone know.
Prague is also only 30 minutes from the airport. Believe me you completely appreciate this if you have ever been stuck in the stop and go traffic of London-crawling 8 miles in 2 hours. Prague is also really easy to get around. Its a small compact city and nearly everything is within walking distance..but be prepared to get lost.
There are shops and restaurants everywhere and nearly everyone speaks English. And of course, just like London, there are tons of Fine Arts events that you can attend. Prague is full of concert halls, theaters, and venues that feature everything from opera to ballet to the symphony. Best of all, its SO CHEAP!
I sort of came here kicking and screaming and now I’m leaving the same way. On the one hand, I hope everyone comes to Prague so they can experience the sheer beauty and wonder of it all. On the other hand, I hope no one else discovers this elegant and refined city…so it can stay a secret for a bit longer. Thank you Prague-we had a lovely time!
